NACHI

This seemed as appropriate a place as any to post this inquiry- apologies if thats not the case

Let me preface this by saying, this is my first online/distance education, so my main "educational" point of reference, is my brick-and-mortar college education 10 years ago. Each class had a course code listed visibly on the curriculum. ES101, ES102 etc.

I am currently just a few days into the student member program, and took a step back to glance further ahead at the many courses readily available here.
I acknowledge the fact so many topics and issues are inter-related, so structuring the exact path of education is likely more than challenging.
As a PA resident, the absence of a licensing board eliminates the state-specific requirements. So my "curriculum" only lists 12 required courses, followed by dozens of "optional" courses. (which I intend to take full advantage of)

My first question: Are these required courses chronological? As in, I should begin with the first listed, and work my way down the list.

I ask, because I am curious if it is counterproductive to create a more "personalized" course of training.
For example, IMO, going into the learning stage of this, I would suspect it to be in my benefit, to review topics in the same progression as per say an actual inspection would occur.
..arrive on site, begin exterior inspection, head up to the roof, etc..

However, the "Roof Inspection" course, is 3 removed from the last required course in my curriculum.

Another, perhaps better example- I'm currently a portion of the way into "Attic, Insulation, Ventilation, and Interior".
I considered breaking away from this course momentarily, to take the "Inspection of Crawlspaces" course. Assuming this smaller course, would benefit in my progression of the larger, previously started "Attic.." course.

I suppose the bottom line, do any courses have prerequisites for others, so on and so forth. Having a background in general contracting, I know many of my strong areas, and the areas I'll need to place extra focus on. But I want to ensure I don't make this more difficult than it has be, or make the progression less natural.

Thank you in advance for any suggestions and feedback - I greatly appreciate it!

I inspected this 1957 house this week and the sidewalls were framed with vertical 2x8's staggered and nailed together. In the photo you can see where they covered the band joist with lap siding then it is capped with a sill plate and the 2x8's are set on top of the sill. The 2x8's extend clear to the roof line on the gable end which you can only see in the attic. They covered the gable on the outside with lap siding. I have also attached a picture of the inside of the unfinished garage and you can see it is a single wall construction. Has anyone seen this type of construction before and know what the proper name for it is? Board and Batten didn't seem to fit. The interior is dry walled like a conventional home.
The attic construction was site built trusses placed 8' apart with 2x4's 16"oc spanning the trusses at the ceiling.
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Does anyone have experience with some of the new low cost Mini Split Heat Pump now available for under $1,000 for a 9,000 Btu unit?

Building a low energy house and only need a small unit but prices are all over the place from $6-700 up to $2.000.Hard to find good reviews on these units. Any in put is appreciated.

Hi there,
Does anyone have experience with some of the new low cost Mini Split Heat Pump now available for under $1,000 for a 9,000 Btu unit?
Building a low energy house and only need a small unit but prices are all over the place from $6-700 up to $2.000.
Hard to find good reviews on these units. Any in put is appreciated.

Hi there,
Does anyone have experience with some of the new low cost Mini Split Heat Pump now available for under $1,000 for a 9,000 Btu unit?
Building a low energy house and only need a small unit but prices are all over the place from $6-700 up to $2.000.
Hard to find good reviews on these units. Any in put is appreciated.

It will burn the hair off your arm when you get a delayed oven burner light. Shook everything that was not bolted down. Wished Nick had this one and I had a feather we would both be tickled;-)
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I had to use my new spider man shoes to get on this roof. Hey Gary inspect this sucker from the ground:D;-)
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Inspected house built in 2000 today. The service equipment panel inside didn't have a OCPD on the Siemens 200 amp panel. The main service entry cable was connected to a 200 amp breaker outside which was about 20 ft to panel inside (more than 5 ft. rule) SHOULD the equipment panel inside have a main breaker. Answer YES correct? Hope I'm wording this correctly.
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A 1996 home with attached garage and OSB on the walls and ceiling. Was this installation proper for that time period? I know what to recommend but just wanted to learn a little history.

The only blower assist assemblies that I'm familiar with are the in-line air switch activated type. This was on the end of a dryer duct that was about 39' in length. I have no idea if this thing is adequate or not. Does anybody know anything about this type of device? Sound off please!

Bill Mullen
http://www.carsondunlop.com/2013/03/bluewater-property-consultants-inc-forms-new-strategic-partnership-with-carson-dunlop/
This person was at one time listed as a NACHI member ,a OAHI member ,a CAHPI member , a PHPIC Member and a CMI he seems to be no longer listed with any of these Groups.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Remember Whistler

http://www.nachi.org/forum/f48/lets-not-forget-whistler-4935/

Bill has a big announcement coming soon
http://www.nachi.org/forum/showpost....&postcount=103

Personal Lines Policies:
Citizens-Endorsed Inspection Companies for
Wind Mitigation Inspections

IE #010-13 – June 13, 2013

As a service to our applicants and policyholders, Citizens now endorses the following three highly qualified inspection companies to provide wind mitigation inspections:

Inspection Depot
800.991.9094
schedule@inspectiondepot.com
www.inspectiondepot.com

Mueller Services
800.934.1246
customerservice@mueller-inc.com
www.mueller-inc.com/retail/windMit.pdf

Quality Built
888.637.6322
customerservice@qualitybuilt.com
www.qualitybuilt.com/citizens.php

Property owners applying for coverage with Citizens and existing policyholders who apply for wind mitigation premium discounts must have a wind mitigation inspection performed by a Florida-licensed, authorized inspector. Property owners may select any Florida-licensed and authorized mitigation inspector to perform the inspection.

Consumer Benefits
Citizens-endorsed inspection companies:

Ensure that their inspectors meet the Florida Office of Insurance Regulation minimum licensing standards
Verify that their inspectors have passed criminal background checks
Provide, and require their inspectors to attend, annual industry training courses

When an applicant or policyholder hires a Citizens-endorsed inspection company, the inspection agreement is solely between the property owner and the inspection company. Property owners and agents should contact the inspection company directly for information about:

Inspection fees and payment options
Appointment scheduling
The inspection process
Inspection report delivery options (e.g., U.S. mail, fax, email, etc.)

The applicant or policyholder should give you a copy of the complete inspection report, including photographs, which you will need to upload via the ePAS Electronic Document Submission process.

For additional information, refer to the:

· Policyholders section: Blue Inspections button; select Wind Mitigation Inspections
· Agents section: Blue Inspections button

Selecting a Citizens-endorsed inspector to perform an inspection does not guarantee wind mitigation discounts or that the property will not be re-inspected to verify that wind mitigation discounts were applied correctly.

Hi folks!

I've added a new feature to the Real Estate Agent CE referrals we've been offering in Colorado, Missouri, and Florida. Now, when an agent uses your card and InterNACHI ID to sign up for an account, you'll receive a notification email immediately with the name of the agent and their company. This way you can keep track of which agents are using the cards you give out!

http://www.nachi.org/coagent.htm
http://www.nachi.org/fl-agent.htm
http://www.nachi.org/mo-agent.htm

Tim

This is the last of the lot (that I could fix at any rate) These work well and are in decent condition (some scrapes on the backs naturally). $250 ea. and estimate shipping to be about $10 for the northeastern US, others please ask and I will get you a rate. I accept paypal and EMT or credit card...Thanks!

Moisture meters

... an enterprise promoted to NACHI members by Nathan Thornberry, who claimed to manage its marketing and other services, was sold by him as being a state compliant entity whereby a home inspector could purchase engineering services and "resell" them to clients and contractors for profit.

While claiming that the services were compliant in "46 states", Thornberry would not say which states the services were noncompliant. Instead, he invited NACHI members to sign up for the service and then, at that time, inquire as to its legitimacy in their state.

He presented the service as being legitimate and safe for home inspectors to use ... and ridiculed those who stated otherwise.

According to the State of South Carolina, the following cease and desist order has been issued against "My Engineer on Call".

It reads, as follows:

Quote:
BEFORE THE SOUTH CAROLINA
BOARD OF REGISTRATION FOR PROFESSIONAL ENGINEERS AND SURVEYORS

In the Matter of:

My Engineer On Call
c/o Jeff Donaldson
PO Box 1154
Mt. Pleasant, SC 29465


License No. Unlicensed Practice

Respondent.





ORDER TO CEASE AND DESIST










TO THE ABOVE-NAMED RESPONDENT:

WHEREAS, it has been brought to the attention of the South Carolina Board of Registration for Professional Engineers and Surveyors (the Board) that the firm offers to engage in the practice of engineering by offering “reliable engineering education and support services” and “engineering solutions” on the firm’s website; and
WHEREAS, the firm is not licensed by this Board to provide and/or perform engineering work in South Carolina; and
WHEREAS, this Order is authorized by Section 40-22-100 and Section 40-1-100(A) of the 1976 Code of Laws of South Carolina, as amended.
THEREFORE, THE FIRM IS HEREBY NOTIFIED AND EXPRESSLY ORDERED to immediately cease and desist from providing engineering services and advertising in any manner that the firm or any employees may offer engineering services, as defined by Section 40-22-20 and by Section 40-22-30 (c) of the amended Code, until such time, if ever, as the firm may be properly authorized by the Board in accordance with law.
VIOLATIONS MAY BE PUNISHED BY THE IMPOSITION OF CIVIL AND CRIMINAL PENALTIES WHICH MAY INCLUDE FINES OR IMPRISONMENT, AS PROVIDED BY LAW.

AND IT IS SO ORDERED.



SOUTH CAROLINA BOARD OF

PROFESSIONAL ENGINEERS AND SURVEYORS


___________________ BY: _________________________________
Date Jan B. Simpson
Administrator

http://m.theatlanticwire.com/nationa...suicide/66191/

Does anyone know the minimum requirement for smoke detector installation in a residential home in state of Georgia? Thanks for any input

An interesting installation.
1998 Build
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My house built in 2005 in South Florida. A/c unit is by Trane. The system is sweating a lot/ lots of condensation on the unit. The handler is in the garage. I have cleaned out the drain tube outside with the hose and flushed it out and opened the panel and added bleach water to the drip pan yesterday. The evap coil did look dirty, the filter is new. In the picture I circled where it is leaking water. That is the blower motor area, then in the middle the evap the to the far right the filter. Is the water normal? or any tips what I might need to do.
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OK
Maybe not all,but I am noticing a disturbing trend of poor quality vinyl windows to the point I wonder if telling people to upgrade from single pane with storms is always a good idea.
I see busted seals at an alarming rate and lets face it buying a simple double hung to replace the warped ,not matched,tight,loose upper which falls when unlocked along with bad caulking makes me think.

I used to call casements "Florida windows" because they were made only for that climate and not Chicago's with all the drafts but now the casements seem superior along with "Horizontal sliders) which have the fewest issues of all.
Some brands are better than others .
"Climate Guard seems to be the best that I have inspected with fewest issues.
how about the kind that have no metal retainer over the butel gaskets .
Facing south I sometimes find them melting and dripping in between the glass.
Anybody have an opinion on good and bad types or brands here ?
Thanks
Bob